Garment or garment lining with flexible inserts



March 7, 1950 M. METZGER GARMENT OR GARMENT LINING WITH FLEXIBLE INSERTS Fil'd July 5, 1947 25" -5 f if 45 4d d INVENTOR.

/V/ 0/10/7 Me 2292/ BY Patented Mar. 7, 1950 isomer OFFICE GARMENT R. GARMENT LINING WITH FLEXIBLE INSERTS Morton Metzger, New Rochelle, N. Y.

Application July 5, 1947, Serial N 0. 759,232

8 Claims.

This invention relates to a garment, and more particularly to a garment lining of the type which may be detachably secured within an outer garment to change the character of the latter. Such linings, for example, are used to convert a coat or the like into a lightweight garment, with the detachable lining out, or a heavy garment with the lining detachably secured therein.

It has been proposed hitherto in such garment constructions to use flexible or elastic inserts or the like, so that the garment readily adapts itself to the form of the wearer and allows freedom of movement. Various types of elastic or.

flexible constructions have been used, and more commonly comprise elastic attachments of the sleeves to the body of the garment or the use of an elastic member across the back of the garment between the sleeves. In such prior art constructions, the elastic insert or section was generally left exposed, rendering it liable to entanglement in the fabric of the outer garment and to malfunctioning due to tearing and the like.

An object of the present invention is to provide a garment or detachable garment lining including an elastic insert in the back portion of the garment which is normally concealed, in the contracted position, by pleats or folds in inner and outer layers or linings of the garment.

A further object of the invention is to provide a garment or garment lining including inner and outer layers of fabric provided with vertically extending, centrally disposed inverted folds or pleats, with the inner ends of the pleats conjointly interconnected by an elastic insert in such a manner that the insert, in its contracted position, is concealed by the inverted pleats.

These, and other objects, advantages and novel features of the invention will be apparent from the following description and the accompanying drawing. In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a front elevation view of a garment lining embodying the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a rear elevation view of the garment lining shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a transverse sectional view taken on the line 33 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a front elevation View of a modified form of garment lining embodying the invention.

Fig. 5 is a rear elevation view of the garment lining shown in Fig. 4.

Fig. 6 is a transverse sectional view taken on the line 6-6 of Fig. 4.

Fig. 7 is an elevation view illustrating the garment lining of Figs. 1, 2 and 3 incorporated in an outer garment.

The present invention, while directed broadly to garments in general, will be more particularly described as incorporated in a garment lining of the type securable within an outer garment by use of releasable fastener means. Such linings are commonly used to convert a lightweight garment to a heavy, or vice versa.

According to the present invention, the garment lining or the like is made of two layers or linings of substantially non-elastic material, such as a fabric, hereinafter referred to as the inner layer and the outer layer. In the upper portion of the back of the garment lining, each of these layers is formed with an inverted pleat. Preferably, this pleat is provided by making each layer in two sections, such as a right section and a left section, and turning under the longitudinal edges of the sections at the back seam.

The edges of both layers are folded inwardly upon each other and with the folded edges of the inner layer in juxtaposition with the folded edges of the outer layer. The folded under edges of the right section are then secured to the folded under edges of the left section by a flexible or elastic member or insert stitched to the inner edges of the folds.

The resultant pleat acts to conceal the elastic insert in its contracted position, and allow freedom of movement across the back of the garment. When the back is expanded, the pleat opens up to some extent due to the elasticity of the insert and the insert is exposed. As soon as tension is released, however, the insert forces the pleat back into its normal covering position.

In a modified form of the invention, the inverted pleat formed by folding under the edges of the two sections and connecting them by an elastic insert is'provided only in the outer layer of the garment. The inner layer, in this case, is folded back upon itself in the form of an 3 fold, with the exposed edge of the fold substantially aligned with the center line of the pleat in the outer layer.

Referring more specifically to Figs. '1, 2 and 3, a garment lining generally indicated at it is provided having a releasable slide fastener or the like ll extending completely around the front opening by means of which the lining may be secured to an outer garment having a cooperable slide fastener arrangement. Garment H! includes right and left sections l5 and 20 provided with armholes l2 and I3 respectively, to which 3 are secured sleeves 25, 30 in a manner described more fully hereinafter.

Each section 15, 20 comprises an inner layer of fabric 35 and an outer layer 40. These two layers are united to each other by seams adjacent the front opening of the garment, and are also joined at the back of the garment. For the major portion of the length of the back joint or seam, sections [5 and 29 are sewed together along the line 15. However, adjacent the upper part of the back portion, the edges of outer layers 40 are folded under each other as indicated at l1, l8 and the edges of inner layer 35 are folded under as indicated at 2|, 22.

The upper ends of folded under edges 11 and 2|, and likewise of edges 18 and 22, are secured together directly at the neck or collar portion of the garment. The lower ends of these folded under sections are likewise united, as indicated at 23, thus forming a more or less closed pocket resulting from the folding under of the rear edges of the two layers 35 and 40.

In accordance with the present invention, a flexible or elastic insert 45 of any desired type is disposed in the pocket formed by the folds and has its vertical edges connected by stitching 26, 21 to the folded end of inner edges of layers 35 and ii) to form an inverted pleat. Members 45 may be made of any desired flexible or elastic material. Preferably it is knitted from an elastic yarn to give stretch, resilience and elasticity.

With the described construction, in the contracted position of insert 45, the latter is concealed and enclosed by the inverted pleats in the inner and outer layers 35 and 40. When the garment is stretched, as when being donned by a wearer, the pleats open and the elastic member 45 expands to accommodate the garment to the form of the wearer. As soon as the tension is released, member 45 contracts and closes the inverted pleats in layers 35 and 40 and is concealed in the pocket thus formed.

The upper portion of the inner ends of sleeves 25 and 38 are secured directly, as by stitching or the like, to the upper halves of armholes i2 and [3. The lower or under portions of sleeves 25 and 3c are each preferably connected by an elastic insert or gusset 3|, 32, respectively, to the lower halves of the armholes l2 and i3. Gussets 31, 32 may be omitted, if desired, and the lower or under portions of the sleeves secured directly to the armholes. Cuffs 33 and 34, which are made of an elastic material, such as being knitted from elastic yarn, are provided to assure the sleeves remaining at full length and not crumpling up when the outer garment is donned.

A garment lining is thus provided which conforms to the body of the wearer in all positions of the body, and yet allows a great deal of freedom of movement as compared with prior art linings. The elastic insert 45 provides freedom of movement across the back, thus preventing any distorted appearance of the outer garment when the lining I is used. The cuffs 33, 34 assure the sleeves being kept fully extended on the arms of the wearer.

A modified form of garment lining embodying the invention is shown in Figs. 4, and 6. Referring to these figures, the garment lining, generally indicated at 50, is provided with a releasable slide fastener 51 whereby the lining may be secured in an outer garment. In this case, the lining likewise comprises right and left sections 55 and 60 each including an inner layer 65 and an outer layer 10. The garment also includes 15, 15 secured to the remainder of the garment in the usual manner, although the sleeves may be provided with elastic gussets or the like, if desired and as described in connection with the garment shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3. Elastic cuffs 52, 52 are provided in the same manner as previously described.

Outer layers 10 have their inner ends secured together along a seam 'H for a major portion of their length. The upper portions of the inner edges, however, are turned inwardly in the same manner as previously described and as indicated at 12, 13.

The major portion of the length of the rear edges of inner layer sections 65 are joined by a seam 66. Near the upper portion of the back, however, the inner edges of section 65 are made longer so that they overlap, and one edge 61 is reversed on itself and lies along the other edge 58.

An elastic insert interconnects the inner ends of turned in edges 12, 13 of outer layer sections 10, being stitched thereto as indicated at 8!, 8| to form a pleat. Insert 80 is concealed by the inverted pleat in outer layer 10 in the same manner as in the embodiment previously described. However, the arrangement of the inner layer 55 is somewhat different, in this instance, being what might be described as an S fold in inner lining 65 provided by the turned under inner end 6! united to the end 68. The pleats or folds formed by the inner and outer layers are again closed at the neck or collar portion of the garment, and at the bottom as indicated by seam 86. The elastic insert 80 is thus fully enclosed in the same manner as the embodiment of Figs. 1, 2 and 3, and functions in a manner identical to that previously set forth.

Fig. 7 shows the garment lining ID of Figs. 1, 2 and 3 as incorporated in an outer garment 90. Garment lining II] is detachably secured in outer garment by cooperation to slide fastener H with the corresponding slide fastener on the outer garment. To illustrate the invention more clearly, the back of the coat has been shown extended so that the inverted pleat in inner layer 35 of lining in is open exposing elastic insert 45.

The described invention provides an elficient practical garment or garment lining construction in which elastic inserts are used to provide freedom of movement for the wearer. The elastic back inserts 45 and 80 assure close, form fitting across the back, with the inserts being protected from snagging or the like by the inverted pleats or the fold in the inner and outer layers of the lining. The elastic cuffs assure maintenance of the sleeves in proper position on the arms.

While specific embodiments of the invention have been shown and described in detail to illustrate the application of the principles thereof, it will be understood that the invention may be otherwise embodied without departing from such principles.

What is claimed is:

1. A garment comprising, in combination, an outer back portion of substantially non-elastic material having a pair of centrally disposed, oppositely extending vertical folds; an elastic member underlying said folds and secured to the horizontally spaced, vertically extending inner edges thereof to form an inverted pleat; said folds normallycovering the outer surface of said member in the contracted position of the latter; and an inner back portion of substantially nonelastic material secured with said outer back portion and substantially coextensive therewith and having at least one vertically extending, centrally disposed fold covering the inner surface of said member in at least the contracted position thereof.

2. A garment comprising, in combination, an outer back portion comprising a pair of side sections of substantially non-elastic material having their adjacent inner edges folded in opposing directions for at least a portion of their lengths to form centrally disposed, vertically extending folds; an elastic member underlying said folds and secured to the horizontally spaced, vertically extending inner edges thereof to form an inverted pleat; said inverted pleat normally covering the outer surface of said member in the contracted position of the latter; and an inner back portion comprising a pair of side sections of substantially non-elastic material secured with said outer back portion and having a vertically extending, centrally disposed fold along a seam joining its side section, said fold covering the inner surface of said member in at least the contracted position thereof.

3. Agarment comprising, in combination, an outer back portion comprising a pair of side sections of substantially non-elastic material having the upper portions of their adjacent inner edges folded back to form centrally disposed, vertically extending folds and the lower portions joined to form a back seam; an elastic member underlying said folds and secured, to the horizontally spaced, vertically extending inner edges thereof; the resultant inverted pleat normally covering the outer surface of said member in the contracted position of the latter; and an inner back portion comprising a pair of side sections of substantially non-elastic material secured with said outer back portion and having a vertically extending, centrally disposed fold along a seam joining'its side sections, said fold covering the inner surface of said member in at least the contracted position thereof.

4. A garment lining comprising, in combination, outer and inner layers of material shaped to form a garment, said material being substantially non-elastic; said layers having aligned, adjacent, or oppositely extending, inverted folds extending vertically thereof along the center line of the back of the garment; and an elastic member underlying said folds and secured, to the horizontally spaced, vertically extending inner edges thereof; the resultant inverted pleats normally covering said member in the contracted position of the latter.

5. A garment lining comprising, in combination, outer and inner layers of material shaped to form a garment and each comprising a pair of side sections having their adjacent inner edges folded back for at least a portion of their lengths to form vertically extending folds along the back center line of the garment; said material being substantially non-elastic; and an elastic member underlying said folds and secured, to and interconnecting the horizontally spaced, vertically extending inner edges thereof; the resultant inverted pleats normally covering said member in the contracted position of the latter.

6. A garment lining comprising, in combination, outer and inner layers of material shaped to form a garment and each comprising a pair of side sections having the upper portions of their adjacent inner edges folded back to form vertically extending folds along the back center line of the garment and the lower portions joined to form a back seam; said material being substantially non-elastic; and an elastic member underlying said folds and secured, to and interconnecting the horizontally spaced, vertically extending inner edges thereof; th resultant inverted pleats normally covering said member in the contracted position of the latter.

7. A garment lining comprising, in combination, outer and inner layers of material shaped to form a garment, the outer layer comprising a pair of side sections having their adjacent inner edges folded back for at least a portion of their lengths to form vertically extending folds along the back center line of the garment and the inner layer comprising a pair of side sections having a pleated fold along a seam joining its side sections, said fold being aligned with said first-mentioned folds; and an elastic member underlying said folds and secured to and interconnecting the horizontally spaced, vertically extending inner edges of said first-mentioned folds; said firstmentioned folds normally covering the outer surface of said member in the contracted position of the latter.

8. A garment lining comprising, in combination, outer and inner layers of material shaped to form a garment, the outer layer comprising a pair of side sections having the upper portions of their adjacent inner edges folded back to form vertically extending folds along the back center line of the garment and the lower portions joined to form a back seam, and the inner layer comprising a pair of side sections having a fold along a seam joining its side sections, said fold being aligned with said first-mentioned folds; and an elastic member underlying said folds and secured, to and interconnecting the horizontally spaced, vertically extending inner edges of said firstmentioned folds; said first-mentioned folds normally covering the outer surface of said member in th contracted position of the latter.

MORTON METZGER.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,125,903 Fatherson et al. Jan. 19, 1915 2,252,234 Siegel Aug. 12, 1941 2,341,798 Lesser Feb. 15, 1944 

